Who Would You Invite to Dinner & Why
WALK A MILE IN MY SHOES
Dorothy Tarpley
Today I walked the mile plus trail to the Fort Bowie ruins, a National Historic Site. I was accompanied by the Chief of the Chiricahua Apache’s, Cochise, who had come at my invitation. I had read about the Fort, the need for the Fort from a white man’s perspective, and I wanted to hear how Cochise viewed that perspective.
The hike was somewhat strenuous, rocky, up and down hills. There was little shade, lots of spiny bushes, skinny boojum trees and tall grasses. We were alone, no other hikers. I carried drinking water in my modern insulated bottle, Cochise carried his in a leather pouch. He wore a typical Apache band around his head, but nothing to shade the deep wrinkles in his brown face. My bright Sketcher’s tennis shoes looked out of place next to his worn moccasins. Walking a mile in his shoes was the whole point.
White men call Fort Bowie, “The guardian of Apache Pass.” Cochise corrected it to “The confiscation of Apache Pass.”
“When I was young,” he said, “I walked all over this country, east and west, and saw no other people than the Apaches.”
Apache Spring was the mother lode. Without water, it wouldn’t have been home to the Apaches. Without water, Fort Bowie would not have come into being. Without water, this area would never have become the perfect route for settlers or the Butterfield Overland mail wagons.
As Cochise and I stopped at the various informational placards, highlighting the confrontations with his tribe, he would become very still, bow his head and speak softly in his native tongue. I did not disturb him. We came to the ruins of the stagecoach station. Cochise told me how his people supplied wood to the station workers and never attacked their mail wagons. We came to the small cemetery, peacefully quiet among the tall white markers. Cochise walked to a far corner, away from me. He knelt by a small headstone, raised his arms to the sky, and sang a sad, mournful song. I knew from my reading it was the grave of his two-year-old son who had died of dysentery while being held captive with Cochise’s wife.
As we approached the main ruins of Fort Bowie, Cochise refused to walk the grounds with me. He filled his water pouch at the water spigot and found a shady spot to rest. I knew this was not the place to have a conversation. The ruins were extensive but mostly occasional rock formations hinting at once-standing walls. The concrete reinforcements in place to stabilize what was left were quite ugly and detracted from the actual ruins. We did not stay long.
It was late afternoon as we headed back. Coming to a flat clearing, Cochise removed something from inside his shirt and suggested we stop to eat. I was caught off guard at the suggestion and the fact he had thought to bring refreshment. He spread our simple meal on the cloth that had held it, and we sat cross-legged on the ground. He offered a blessing in his language; I offered one in mine. While we shared this nourishment, Cochise quietly related what led to war with the white man.
In 1861, a band of Apaches raided a nearby ranch, stole some livestock and kidnapped a young boy. The rancher wrongly blamed Cochise and his band of Chiricahua Apaches and demanded military intervention. The Army sent a contingent of men to Apache Pass and lured Cochise into their camp. At this point in the story, Cochise became agitated and emotional, relating how furious and insulted he was to be falsely accused. He was held prisoner by the Army soldiers till he was able to escape. Sadly and unnecessarily, this led to open warfare between whites and his people. It led to the construction of Fort Bowie and ten years of death and destruction to his tribe. It eventually led to the abolishment of the Chiricahua Apache Reservation by the U.S. federal government.
Cochise was through with his rebuttal of the white man’s version of events, of their claim to be “guardians of Apache Pass.” He repeated the words he had spoken at the beginning of our hike. “When I was young I walked all over this country…and saw no other people than the Apaches.”